Why Here— Norway

I wanted to experience the many winter activities Norway has to offer. This was a solo trip.

Getting There

Icelandair ORD to OSL via a layover in Keflavik Iceland. 
Money Exchange

Got money at the airport (OSL) DNB bank with a fairly decent rate and no fee. 

Visa

No customs or stamp since I went through it already during my transfer at Keflavik airport. This is standard practice when traveling within Schengen countries FYI.

Airport to City

Flytoget vs. metro for the airport to city transfer

NOK 198 vs. NOK 109. That's it for me, especially when you only save a few minutes on the more expensive option. I could even "buy-in" if this was some futuristic Tesla -esque train, but it isn't. Maybe in 1990, it was, but for its sleek exterior, the interior was quite disappointing. I was still cramped next to some stranger, small compartments available for luggage, and crowded during prime times, at least. I did get to watch some Norwegian news, though. 

My recommendation, take the regular train (what is likely equivalent to an American commuter train, like L12 or R10) to and from the airport. You save approximately $10, and you have more options when it comes to what stops you'd like in the city center. Flytoget only stops at Oslo S (City Center), but the train also stops at Nationaltheatret. The train is modern enough and even had the option to purchase coffee drinks onboard from a machine. From Nationaltheatret to the airport, it took 29 minutes. Another perk is you can use your train ticket for 2.5 hours after purchased or validated. If you buy a ticket from the machine, it is activated immediately. However, you can also buy a single non-activated ticket from the 7 eleven, and activate at a mini kiosk just before entering the tracks. This allows you access to the city metro, buses, and ferries in that time frame. 

I think the only reason to do flytoget is if you are on a time crunch as their trains come more regularly, especially during non-prime times. 

Taxi is around NOK 610 OR 720 after 5pm

There are No Ubers

Oslo Hotels

1. Airport hotel

Unless it's a Radisson, don't do it... if you have intentions of exploring the city center. My shuttle was a 10-15 minute ride away from the hotel. You also have to factor in the time spent waiting on shuttle pickups. And I could even justify the extra time if it were free, but it isn't. It cost a little under $8 (NOK 70). A single ticket to the city center is around NOK 100. So instead of doing what I did... landed, collected luggage, shuttle to the hotel, quickly grabbed a few things, ran out to catch the next shuttle back to the airport, then find the train to the city... just land, collect your luggage and go straight to the city via train. 

I stayed at the Thon Hotel Gardermoen. Be careful because there is also a Thon Hotel Oslo Airport, which is not the same. The outer appearance is Scandinavian quirky, with what seem to be separate pods that are all actually connected. The room is minimalist, with two very narrow "standard" beds. I also had the option to pull out a Murphy bunk bed from the wall. I'm a small person, and I don't move much when I sleep, and even I almost rolled out of bed once or twice. They provide a very light dinner... consisted of soup and deli meat, bread and cheese out of which I made a sandwich. Beer and wine for purchase at the check-in counter. Breakfast was also included, which was hot with variety. 

2. Hotel Bristol (a Thon Hotel) was quite the opposite. This was located in the city center, between stops Oslo S and Nationaltheatret. I chose to walk from the latter, which was a 15-minute walk on occasionally bumpy sidewalks (you how the Europeans love their cobblestone). It was probably longer because I got a little lost and confused when leaving the station, and I only had my maps app operating in airplane mode. The hotel is exquisite with a medium-sized dining room present upon your entry. Check-in is just off to the right. The room also had a queen-sized bed with two separate mini duvets. I opted for the 7th floor, which meant taking an elevator to floor 6, then the stairs one flight up. This was to gain a "view," which disappointingly only served to provide a view of the other side of the hotel with a majorly obstructed view of the Royal Palace peaking just above. Since I was facing due west, I'd imagine you get to see a pretty sunset if you were there at the right time. If ADA is necessary for you, I wouldn't opt for this floor, but you aren't missing much. 

I had dinner in the Bristol Restaurant.

What to do in Oslo

On my first day, I arrived at around 1pm. Most museums closed around 4pm and sunset around that time as well. Due to limited time, I researched my top attractions. I really wanted to see Edward Munch's The Scream and the Viking Ship Museum. Unfortunately, the Scream was not on display due to the relocation of the National Museum and wouldn't be available until the next year! This, therefore, made my decision easy, Viking Ship Museum it was. I hauled ass to drop off my luggage at the not close airport hotel (see above) and then back to the airport via shuttle, then train to the city center, then bus to the museum. It took me about 1 hour. I arrived at around 230pm. 

I usually move pretty quickly through museums, so I wasn't worried about the timing. 

But upon entering, I realized this was a tiny museum. Only 4 large ships and some other small artifacts. The ships were large and impressive. 

After, I visited the city center and explored the immediate area of the Nationaltheatret station, the Royal Palace grounds for a bit in the rain.

My last night in Norway was in Oslo, but this time in the city center. I didn't arrive until around 4pm. The only other things I really wanted to see were the Vigeland Sculpture Park and the top 50 world best bar, Himkok. I figured since the park would be dark, I would choose the bar ;). This place seemed very popular by reviews, and I hadn't made reservations, so once again, I hauled ass to try to get there no too long after their 5pm opening. I dropped the luggage off at the hotel and sped walked about 15 minutes (longer because I got a bit lost) to the bar. Arrived at 545pm to find a sign on the door... "closed due to maintenance/drainage issues, will open tomorrow at 1700". WTF! 

So, I took a leisurely walk back to the hotel to have dinner and retire for the night.

The next morning I thought about waking up early (at like 745) to go to the sculpture park before heading to the airport, but sleeping and enjoying breakfast seemed like more fun the morning of. 

Take away points for Oslo:

Kirkenes 

Getting there

SAS flight from OSL to KKN

Arrival to the city

Prearranged airport pick up on arrival - to the Snowhotel

Hotel

Kirkenes Snowhotel 

The first night was spent in the much anxiously anticipated and eponymous "Snowhotel." 

After exploring the hotel entrance you are sent to the “VIP lounge” in a different non-ice building. This large room is your warm communal spot to rest, charge, use wifi and wait until the anticipated fun night begins. You are also allowed to explore the grounds of the Snowhotel.

The evening starts with dinner which also includes and nice demo on how to keep warm during the soon to come night.

Before you head off to your ice room for the night, you have time to explore the night sky and to grab a nightcap in the ice bar!

Once you’re ready, it’s off to the changing rooms to prepare for the night. I disrobed down to my long underwear (Smartwool 250) and added a balaclava, my Carhartt hat. They provided large wool socks, slippers, sheets and a Norwegian military grade sleeping bag. Everything else was kept in the luggage room, and small personal items like cards and passport put in a small locker. I kept my phone with me.

Although the sleeping bag was warming that I expected, I still had a difficult time falling asleep. Maybe it was a combination of trying to adapt to breathing out of my mouth instead of my now covered nose or just the adrenaline of the buildup for the night.

The following day you have options of excursions and activities. I did the following:

1. Briefly explored the city of Kirkenes and visited a former WW2 bunker. As a history buff, this was a really cool experience. Our guide Frank, was actually alive during the war and spent time in the bunker so is able to give a personal recount of the German occupation of Norway and it’s impact on the country and city.

2. Ate a reindeer sandwich

3. Took a mushing ride (dog sledding ride) on a frozen lake

4. Retired for the evening in my quaint but cozy Sami style Gamme Cabin

Take aways:

It’s cold. Make sure to pack appropriately— base layers, mid layers, outer layers.

If I had to do again, I’d try the King Crab fishing excursion. You get to ice-fish for your own crab then return to the hotel to eat them